Spoke Nipples

BMX spoke nipples: the part that puts the wheel under tension

The nipple is the nut that passes through the rim hole and into which the spoke threads. It is what the spoke key turns, and what sets the tension, and therefore the trueness of the wheel. A part costing a few cents that decides, in practice, whether the whole wheel build holds.

Aluminium or brass: the real trade-off

Anodised aluminium saves around thirty grams over a complete set and offers the full range of colours. In return it tolerates high tension less well and can shear under the key if the angle is wrong or if corrosion has set in. Brass is heavier but far more forgiving: it retensions without complaint, resists galvanic corrosion, and remains the logical choice for a heavier rider, a hard-worked rear wheel or intensive training use.

Thread, length and rim drilling

• 14G thread (2.0 mm): the BMX Race standard, compatible with common stainless BMX spokes.
• 12 mm length: the most widely used, suited to conventional rim depths.
• 14 mm and longer: for deep-section rims, where the nipple has more material to pass through.
• Head diameter: it must match the spoke hole of the rim, otherwise the seat will deform.

How to choose, and how many

A 28H wheel takes 28 nipples, a 36H wheel takes 36. For a common 28 front / 36 rear pair, count 64 pieces; a pack of 80 leaves the margin you need, because a few always disappear inside the rim during the build. For a straight replacement, use the same length and the same material as the existing ones: mixing alloy and brass on one wheel creates uneven tension.

Compatibility to check

Three points are enough. The thread must match the spokes — 14G with 14G. The length must suit the rim depth, without letting the spoke thread protrude into the rim bed. Finally, some carbon rims call for specific nipples, sometimes with a washer, to spread the load: check the manufacturer's recommendation before ordering aluminium. In every case, correctly fitted rim tape protects the inner tube from the spoke ends.

Fitting on a race wheel or a training wheel

On a 28H race wheel aluminium makes sense: weight saved out at the rim, and a finish that matches the frame. On a Pro or Cruiser rear wheel, or a training bike left outdoors, brass avoids nasty surprises when the wheel needs retensioning mid-season.

The brands we stock

Halo is a reference for anodised aluminium nipples, with a very wide choice of colours. Excess offers anodised aluminium packs sized for a complete pair of wheels, in the common colours. Pride and Odyssey cover the replacement references matching their own wheels and spokes. For custom builds we source from the major BMX Race brands in order to cover the less standard lengths and colours.

Care: the one point that makes an alloy nipple last

Lightly oil the thread and the seat on the rim before lacing: tension builds more evenly and the nipple will not bind at the first adjustment. Use a spoke key of the correct size — an oversized key rounds the flats in two turns. After a wet season, a whitened or cracked alloy nipple should be replaced before it fails during a race.

The BMX RACING advice

Give us the reference of your rim, its drilling and the gauge of your spokes: we confirm length, material and quantity, and tell you when brass is still the better answer. Dispatched within 24 to 72 hours, you can spread the cost over 2 or 3 payments.